Corinth canal to …... Clunk!

On passage through the canal

On Saturday September the 6^th we set off from Corinth harbour to make the canal transit. A quick radio call on channel 11 put us on the list to transit and we were invited to take station outside the western entrance to the canal. 20 minutes later a single sailing vessel completed the westbound transit and we were invited to follow one motor yacht into the canal for the subsequent eastbound transit. Hardly a busy day. The canal is impressive when viewed from sea level but in some areas the ravages of time and passage of canal max. vessels is evidently taking its toll. Our transit was achieved with no dramas and after 30 minutes we were safely alongside the canal offices paying our dues, €175.

From here we headed for Korfos, on the Peloponnese east coast, arriving just in time for a swim before sunset. The anchorage here is well protected and served by several tavernas etc. around the bay.

Next morning we were greeted by rain clouds and a succession of heavy showers. By mid day the worst had passed and we sailed off the anchor to head for the island of Aigina. En route we stopped for lunch at the island of Kyra and anchored on the southern tip. Not a very secure anchorage but good enough for a lunchtime stop.

Anchorage in SW bay of Angistri

As the afternoon progressed the rain clouds again gathered and we decided to head for the rather more protected anchorage on the SW tip of Angistri. This bay is closed by an island across the entrance and, given the thunderstorms that ensued that night, we made a good decision. Anchored with 60m out and snugly tied back to the rocks we were able to watch the spectacular display of thunder and lightning without worrying about our security.

From here we had to make it to the Piraeus area next day to drop off Steve for his flight home. Our course took us to the south of Aigina and then across the shipping lanes heading for the coast to the east of Piraeus. We settled on Alimos Marina as a place to spend the night; this would allow us to re-victual and for me to do an engine oil change which was now due. By early afternoon next day we were ready to move on and made a late afternoon dash for the small enclosed bay just west of Varkiza. Although reportedly good holding it took us four attempts to get the anchor to hold; the available space to anchor is quite constrained by depth and a marked swimming area. Once secure we spent a comfortable night and made an unhurried start next day towards Cape Sounion.

Sounion

After an easy sail we anchored off the western beach at Sounion, with two other yachts, anchoring under sail between the two of them. Next morning we moved over to nearer the beach under the Temple on the Cape and anchored on the edge of the swimming area to facilitate getting ashore to visit the temple. Another Greek archaeological site being reconstructed with EU money! I know that the more complete the ruins the more tourists they pull in but it is getting to the stage where they might just as well build replicas! I am not a fan of reconstruction. Following the visit to the “ruins” we set off north to the bay of Tourkolimani for a pleasant overnight stop and then next day pushed north again to Porto Rafti where two further friends were to join, Chris and Anthony.

Tourkolimani with the full moon rising behind the church

We managed to find a berth, inside the quay, alongside another local boat making getting ashore easy and they arrived safely in the early evening.

Next day we managed to re-victual and a further addition to the crew, Nikos joined us for a day sail. From Porto Rafti we set off for an anchorage on the east side of the island of Makronisi where we found a beautiful bay to anchor in, even if it was subject to a slight swell, causing us to roll whenever Kurukulla swung beam on. Lunch here and a pleasant afternoon in the sun and then we headed back to Tourkolimani to drop off Nikos (he had pre-positioned his car) and for Simon to depart as well.

On Sunday 14^th of September we sailed off the anchor and headed east, out into the Cyclades, and the stronger winds to be expected there. Our first stop was to be Nisos Kea and the anchorage at Ornos Kavia some 16 miles away. After a brisk reach to clear the north end of Makronisi we eased off onto a broad reach and headed to our destination, anchoring under sail in time for a late-ish lunch. A very satisfying sail! With 24hours to spare before Jason, the next crew member, arrived we decided to circumnavigate the island. Next morning we set off southwards in a light breeze to round the southern tip of the island and thence work our way north. En route we anchored for lunch in the remote and unpopulated bay at Ormos Polais, under the walls of ancient Karathia.

Ancient Karthaia (being rebuilt)

If we thought the reconstruction at Sounion was inappropriate then this example took first prize. It has no transport connections to bring in tourists and some parts looked like the beginnings of a rather poor taste housing development! What was more upsetting was that the EU had contributed €900,000 to rebuilding it!

From here we headed north rounding the top of the island as sunset approached. As the sun set we dropped the anchor in Ormos Voukari, in the shadow of a small church, within the bay of Limin Ay Nikolaou. Next morning we motored across the bay to Korissia and berthed stern to re-victual,

Stern to at Korissia

water ship, and await the arrival of the 1000 ferry with Jason onboard. With all this successfully achieved we headed again for Ornos Kavia to enjoy a peaceful lunch before heading out for a rather more challenging sail across to Ormos Kolona in Kithnos. Ormos Kolona has the advantages of being well protected from all but the west and having two hot springs that run, or more accurately trickle, into the bay. Very relaxing to bathe in.

Hot spring at Ornos Kolona, Kithnos

Next morning, after a final swim, we set off to Siros and selected the most northerly anchorage of the island, at Ormos Grammata, in order to avoid a long beat to windward the morning after when we needed to get round the northern tip of the island. The anchorage was not great, very strong gusts coming down off the hills and at the western end was poor holding and deep. We chose the western end to anchor as the gusts seemed less strong in that part of the bay however next morning we moved over to the eastern part to benefit from the better holding and shallower water.

This was definitely the better end of the anchorage! Not only that but we were serenaded from the shore by someone playing a saxophone. There was some sort of settlement there but we never found out who or what.

From here it was round the northern tip and a beam reach to Tinos, a brilliant sail and at an average of 7.6kts. By mid afternoon we were med. moored in Tinos harbour (we managed to get the last available space) and were planning our meal ashore that night. Our choice of restaurant was the subject of some entertainment.

Dinner out in Tinos

As ever in Greece restaurants line the sides of the streets and walkways and we were accosted by the usual “hookers” used to persuade you to eat in their restaurant. When stopping to look at a proffered menu we had unknowingly walked onto the “territory” of the adjacent restaurant. The owner took severe exception to the “poaching” of clients on his patch and robustly made his views known. That decided it, his rudeness and aggressive attitude ensured that even if we weren't planning to eat at the previous restaurant we sure as hell were going to now! His face was a picture as we took our seats. To rub salt in the wound we also breakfasted there the next day!

By mid day all our necessary victualling etc. was done and we set off for Mykonos. In light of the northerly winds forecast we headed for the anchorage at Ornos Elia where there is plenty of space and the holding is good.

En route, Rinia

Next day we sailed across to Rinia to anchor overnight in a bay sheltered from the now forecast southerly wind and then after a day spent at anchor in Rinia we circumnavigated Delos to get a look at the ruins (we would have anchored and visited but they are closed on Mondays) and then back to Mykonos marina to enable Christoph and Jason to catch their flight back to UK the next day. That same day the next crew member, Matt, joined but the forecast was so poor (N gusting 50kts – who said the Meltemi stops in early September) that we did a tour of the island in the hire car rather than go to sea. Once the worst had blown through we returned to the anchorage at Elia for what was planned to be the next 48 hours returning to Mykonos Marina on the day before Chris and Anthony were also due to depart.

Ancient Delos

As we prepared to depart in very light winds I went to start the engine, it fired twice and came to an instantaneous stop emitting a very expensive sounding “CLUNK”. A quick inspection showed that the engine was absolutely solid, either it had dropped a valve or water had gotten into a cylinder causing a hydraulic lock. Whichever it was, it was not good news. With no wind to sail her into harbour we settled down for another, unplanned, night at anchor and waited for the forecast south wind to set in. By early morning it had done so and so we sailed off the anchor, enjoyed a spanking good sail round to Mykonos and then set about preparing to sail her into the marina. Not a task for the faint hearted! After two close passes across the marina entrance, for us to try to spot a suitable berth to sail into, we double reefed the main, rolled up half of the genoa and headed in.

The berth we sailed into...

No turning back from this point! As luck would have it there was a single space available alongside the wall in the southern section of the marina. Slightly to the alarm of those already moored in there, we sailed in, gybed round, fully rolled the genoa, turned towards the empty berth and dropped the main. Kurukulla just carried her way sufficiently to gently nudge into the berth and some quick work by the crew jumping ashore brought her gently alongside in the berth.

Matt was due to leave from Mykonos two days later and, sadly for him, Doug, the final crew member of the year was programmed to join here but he was never to get out of the harbour. By working the phones and asking around I identified an engineering company in Mykonos town who were capable of removing the engine for inspection. From what I witnessed I would not recommend Mykonos Marine for their engineering standards but they were quick and willing. By late afternoon the engine was out and by early evening the extent of the damage was evident. The choice was a lengthy repair with the engine rebuilt locally or a new engine (the second in 4 years) available from Athens. For the difference in costs and to give me confidence in the repair I opted for the new engine; another Sole Mini 33 (a marinised Mitsubishi engine). In three days the new engine was installed, the old engine is now being crated up for shipping to UK for repair and I am off out on sea trials tomorrow. My only worry is that we still do not know the precise way in which water entered the old engine. Suspicion falls on the exhaust elbow where raw cooling water and exhaust gases mix, but this has yet to be proven.

More when I get back!