Trapani (Sicily) to Alghero (Sardinia)

Sicily to Sardinia

After spending the night in the Lega Navale part of the marina (the new Trapani marina planned and shown in Heikell has never been built), and having enjoyed a very good fish dinner on their terrace, we set off at mid day next day for the outer of the Egadi Islands, Marettimo, Our intention was to anchor at the northern end, under Punta Troia, in preparation for an early start the next day. The forecast for the next thirty six hours was to be NW winds for the first five or six hours going northerly after that and all less than 20 kts average.

Departing Porto Malfatano

Thus it was that we set off at 0500, on port tack under a full main and No 2 genoa to gain distance northwards where the northerly winds were due to set in earliest; we were looking forward to a relatively fast passage in reasonably favourable winds. Three hours later the winds had veered to NNW making our present port tack decidedly unadvantageous, thus it was we tacked early and set off on Starboard tack hard on the wind. For the next 24 hours we beat to windward under double reefed mainsail and heavily reefed genoa against a winds varying between WNW and NNW, continuously 25 knots plus and gusting to 35kts; creating large confused seas. Not pleasant!

Capo Spartivento to Alghero

Only at 1100 the following day did the north wind arrive freeing us to make a fast 7 knot passage directly to Capo Spartivento, our planned landfall. For the final two hours, before our arrival at 1730 in the anchorage at Porto Malfatano (in fact a bay with anchorages not a port) just east of Spartivento, we were on a run, dead downwind in a lumpy sea, this was Neptune just making sure that the crossing contained all the challenges possible, It was 205 miles sailed for a 160 mile transit! After choosing our anchorage, sailing onto the anchor and stowing the sails we settled down for an early supper and a well deserved rest.

The next morning dawned bright and clear with light easterly winds. After a slow start and a swim to revive us we decided that we would make way west, after having had lunch, and try to reduce the distance between us and the south west point of Sardinia. In the event we had a delightful sail westwards, easily rounding Capo Teulada (a military firing range but fortunately inactive today) and finally arrived in Porto Pinto, another anchorage, just outside the Teulada military exclusion zone. Here again we sailed onto the anchor, anchoring off the long sandy beach in 4m of water and even in this depth we were still around 200m from the coast!

Sunset at Porto Pinto

After another relaxing night in a calm if open anchorage it was a close fetch to the west and a third night at anchor in a bay on the very south-eastern tip of the island of San Pietro, two miles south of the town of Carloforte. Here again we had a quiet night and next morning motored the short distance north to the harbour of Carloforte. To our surprise, 500m outside the harbour we were accosted from a RIB sent out by one of the marinas operating in the harbour. Our plan had been to go to the public quay for a short stop before heading onwards but the offer of a free berth for two hours, including a water top up, seemed too good to miss. True to their word the only price we paid was ordering a pair of drinks at the Marinatour Bar, situated at the end of the pontoon, before our departure!

Carloforte waterfront

By 1400 we were under-way again and heading north, out from between the islands and just laying a course parallel to the coastline. This splendid progress had us tucked into a rocky but sheltered anchorage under Capo Pecora along with a 60 foot cruising yacht that we had kept pace with along the way. The light winds forecast for the next week had us changing the No 2 genoa for the larger No 1 before settling down to a last swim and a quiet supper.

Next morning, at 0900, we noticed our companions of the previous day getting under way and sailing out into the bay heading north. Not being one to turn down a challenge we quickly sailed off the anchor and set off in pursuit having given them a start of mile at least. We discovered we were able to point higher than them on the close fetch north and after two hours we had pulled back the start we had given them, passing them on their leeward side but then crossing ahead before slowly leaving them behind.

Dropping astern!

Very satisfying in our 40ft yacht! By the time we had arrived at Capo Mannu, our next overnight anchorage, we were several miles ahead and well settled, enjoying an aperitif on deck by the time they also came to anchor, half a mile away. Sadly we left before them the next morning so no competition on the next leg to Alghero.

In fact the next day was an excellent sail northwards; again a close fetch on port tack ultimately becoming a beat before the wind deserted us 6 miles short of Alghero. As a consequence, after ghosting along for a couple of miles in virtually no wind, we hoisted the “Iron foresail” and motored the final few miles to the next anchorage. We stopped four miles short of Alghero and anchored in amongst a multitude of Italian boats just south of Punta Poglina; this is obviously where the Italian families from Alghero spend their summer weekends at anchor! Here we settled for the night with the usual Italian chatter going on all around us! Slowly, as the evening progressed, the volume lessened until by 2000 we were the only boat there. Peace and tranquillity until the morning arrivals.

Next morning, after an early awakening caused by us drifting over the anchor and the anchor buoy knocking continually on the hull from 0500 onwards! By 0700 I had lost my patience and went for an early morning swim to untangle it from our rudder and give me some peace and quiet in the after cabin. As 1100 arrived we finally gave up hope of any morning wind and motored the final 4 miles to Alghero.

Alghero public quay

Here we berthed on the public quay, at mid-day, in exactly the same spot I occupied on my last visit 8 years ago. The public Quay is not free but good value with holding off lines, power and water, and here we settled down to wait for our next joiner, Dimitri, who was due at 1700.

More when we leave Alghero ….......