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| Departing Kythera |
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| Anchored in Yithion |
I decided to stay in the anchorage
overnight and to move into the harbour the next day. I had a day in
hand as my guests were not expected to arrive before the early
evening of Sunday. In the event I rowed ashore next morning to do
battle with the Vodafone shop staff (I was, and still am, being
royally ripped off for my internet connection and was hoping, in
vain, to resolve the problem. His ultimate advice “Go to Kalamata,
they have an expert!”). On arrival at the shop I discovered I had
forgotten to take the “dongle” with it's SIM card with me (I had
everything else including the computer) and so was forced to return
to the boat and collect it. Having done my reconnaissance of the
harbour I chose a berth next to another British boat, (delightful
couple Chris and Margaret) and was able to have Kurukulla in the
chosen berth and be back to the Vodafone shop within the hour; well
before they closed for the day; but all to no avail!
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| Alongside in Yithion |
That night I went for a quiet meal in a
restaurant recommended by my neighbours and, that done, settled for a
relatively early night. Next morning dawned bright and clear and I
went in search of fresh water, there being no facilities on the
quayside. The Yithion Hotel, on the opposite side of the road to
where I was berthed, had an outdoor tap on the pavement but no amount
of door bell ringing would elicit an answer. A request of one of the
adjacent shopkeepers elicited approval to use the tap but, as always
happens, my initiative led to three other boats wanting to use the
hose to fill up. The shopkeeper who had given me approval became
distinctly nervous! Our efforts to get an answer from the owner of
the hotel, by knocking repeatedly on the door, came to nothing but
another neighbour, we know not who, helpfully rang her and told her
that the boats were “stealing” her water! This resulted in two
things, a lock being put on the tap at 0800 the next day and a demand
for €10 per boar for the water taken (we could have bought similar
quantity of bottled water for less!). We never did meet the owner of
the hotel but I for one will never be a client of hers and I would
suggest no one else patronises the establishment either. Distinctly
unhelpful and unpleasant!
Later that day, Giuliano, Peter and
Mike arrived from Kalamata airport in a taxi. Despite all my efforts,
and those of a Greek friend who lives in Corfu, we could not
ascertain in advance whether there was a bus service from Kalamata to
Yithion; only after my arrival did I discover, by going to the bus
station, that there are four buses a day! Greek organisation of such
things (or lack of it) defeats me! Notwithstanding this they arrived
safely. As they were all first time sailors we had planned to do no
more than go from one side of the central peninsula of the
Peloponnese to the other; Yithion to Kalamata; a total distance of 60
miles in 8 days. This was to prove to be quite enough!
That night we returned to my restaurant
of the night before and then turned in for an early night. In the
morning we victualled followed by my usual battle with the Port
Police before departure. By mid day we were away and on our way to
Plytra. The forecast was about as bad as it could get; Westerly winds
for today followed by gale force easterlies tomorrow.
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| Our french neighbour, Elaphonisos |
Oh joy! In the
event we decided only to stay in Plytra long enough for lunch and
then to head 15 miles south to the island of Elafonisos where there
are secure anchorages around the island for every wind direction. On
arrival we anchored off the beach on the western side in preparation
for the east winds during the night. In the event it was a North East
wind that arrived and as a result, early next morning, we moved round
to a bay on the the south side, Ornos Frangos, to achieve better
shelter. Here we were to stay for 36 hours listening to the winds
whistling through the rigging, with gusts of up to 50Kts. Quite a
baptism of fire for three novice sailors! The anchor held well and
another French boat joined us (at a respectable distance) to shelter
in the same bay. 40 hours after our arrival, and following a brief
swim and walk ashore, we sailed away from Elafonisos, heading west
across the mouth of the gulf towards Porto Kayio.
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| Porto Kayio |
This is a well
sheltered anchorage, just NE of Cape Matapan. (We spared Giuliano
(who is Italian) the details of the battle of Cape Matapan where the
British Navy accounted for several of the Italian Navy's major ships
in WW11). On arrival in Porto Kayio we were the only vessel in the
anchorage, a marked difference to my previous visit, some years
before, when I had struggled to find an anchor spot with sufficient
swinging room. Later in the day we were joined by four other vessels.
Supper ashore in a taverna, a quiet night and next day we set off for
Yerolimena, our planned lunch stop.
The rounding of Cape Matapan was
relatively peaceful but as the morning progressed the winds
strengthened and by the time we arrived in Yerolimena it was gusting
from the west at 25 knots. Not excessive but enough! The anchorage
was calm but with northerly gusts funnelling down through it.
Tolerable! By the time we came to leave, after a leisurely lunch,
life outside the bay was somewhat different! A steep and very
uncomfortable sea had built up but the wind had declined. Twenty
minutes of bouncing from wave top to wave top (in full foul-weather
gear and harnesses!) convinced us that a night in Yerolimena was by
far the best option available on the navigation table. We turned back
and half an hour later were anchored in Yerolimena again and debating
dinner ashore.
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| Kurukulla anchored in Yerolimena from the terrace of Hotel Kyrimai |
The strongest WiFi signal we could receive onboard was
from the Kyrimai Hotel and for that reason we headed there first (we
wanted to connect via their system). A fortuitous decision. After a
drink to try to justify obtaining the WiFi access code (sadly they
didn't give it out to non residents) we debated dining there also. It
was an absolutely delightful place, well restored from a waterfront
warehouse and , as we later found out, rated as one of the best
restaurants and waterfront hotels in Greece. The meal was fantastic
and we obviously managed to consume enough wine with it to justify us
being presented with the WiFi code on departure! We were doubly
grateful we had chosen to dine there!
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| Kurukulla anchored off Kardamila |
Next morning we set off in light winds
and half sailed, half motored northwards towards Ormos Dirou where
there is a great beach and spectacular limestone caves where you can
take the tour underground by boat. The crew rowed themselves ashore
to tour the caves whilst I spent some time sorting out items on the
boat. Least said the better but their rowing skills improved as the
day went on! From there it was next stop Kardamila, our planned
anchorage for the night.
Kardamila is a beautiful bay with a few
luxurious villas built a hundred or so metres from the shore.  |
| Supper at Kardamila |
Deep
blue water and an ideal anchorage in these conditions.
Next morning we all went for a
leisurely swim, discovering in the process that the only minor
problem here was that the locals don't appreciate yachts spoiling
their view of the otherwise empty bay. Needless to say we ignored
them!
You can own the beach but you can't own the water! At 1200 we
set off again towards Kalamata making a final lunch stop at Kitries.
Peter and Mike swam ashore to try to obtain bread but none of the
Tavernas were willing to oblige and the nearest shop was 3 miles
inland!
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| Departing Kitries |
As a compromise I knocked up fried bread from what we had!
Lunch finished, we set sail for the marina at Kalamata. It was 5
miles away but even so it gave time for us to sail through a
torrential downpour! This really isn't Greek summer weather!
On entering the marina we were directed
to a berth next door to a boat I knew from my time wintering in
Brindisi, Italy. Small world! Kurukulla's next crew member, Jaco, was
waiting to join, standing on the jetty, as we arrived and the current
team started packing their bags for departure.
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| The very good but indecipherable taverna! |
We all had dinner ashore, in a local
taverna, eating very well and for €15 per head including wine!
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| The leaving photo. Giuliano, Peter, Self & Mike |
That was the start of two days in the
marina. The intention had been one night only but as nothing in
Kalamata opens on a Sunday we had no choice but to wait a day and
re-victual on the Monday. Even then the choice was limited as we had
struck a public holiday. Even more galling was that the Vodafone shop
never did open! Or not before our departure anyway....
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| Kalamata railway park, all that is left of the 1m guage system | that served the Peloponnese |
More soon.....
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