The best laid plans

Skala port.

Self at castle

The new port facility at Skala in Astipalaia was funded by the EU at a cost of €3.05M and already it has been mostly destroyed by, I suspect, the locals; fishermen who do not want boats berthed in their fishing spots. Of the 12 or so power and water points installed for visiting craft only two are still functioning; that is not counting the 6 or 7 adjacent to (and used exclusively by) the local fishing boats, all of which function! The remainder no longer exist, vandalised . The harbour, although poorly finished, is well protected from the Meltemi. This is all a real shame because it is a beautiful town with lots to offer and the locals are friendly. Whilst there we climbed up to the castle, quite a hike, and enjoyed the spectacular views. The castle itself is being restored into a tourist facility with an event stage and visitors' centre.

Eventually we sailed off the jetty at Astipalaia at 1630 on Saturday 15^th to head out and find an anchorage in the islands six miles to the east; the majority of these islands are uninhabited and we chose the eastern anchorage on Nisos Kounoupia. We arrived at 1845, and after a brief search for a patch of sand to anchor on (the majority was rock), we dropped anchor at dusk. This anchorage was less peaceful than we had hoped; although the wind was in the north and the entrance faced south east a small but noticeable swell found its way in causing Kurukulla to rock and roll all night.

The coast of Tilos

Next morning dawned grey and windy. At 0800 we were glad to hoist the sails and get under-way, heading for Tilos our next planned port of call. We had a wonderful 45 mile sail across, consistently averaging over 6 knots on a beam reach, stand-fast some lighter wind for the last 8 miles. With strong north winds again forecast we made for the large bay on the south coast which would offer the best shelter. The bay was open but had a dramatic backdrop of high mountains on three sides, the Chora (town) being 1.5 km inland at the foot of the northerly mountain. At 1730 we dropped anchor and stowed the sails, it was to be their last appearance for several days.

Anchored off the beach at Tilos

For the next three days we were pinned down in the bay by strong winds from the N – NW. We managed to get ashore and walk up to the town only to find it was virtually deserted. In three hours ashore we had totalled less than 20 people sighted! The local “supermarket” was the most eclectic shop ever seen. Pasta piled high amongst the shoes, trainers and clothing, the worlds largest stock of dry biscuits and no bread! The owners were also a strange couple, he with silver curly hair, a beer in hand and no word of English, she not speaking a word unless pressed but with a fairly good command of English. This summed up the island, quiet, peaceful but probably the least welcoming that we have visited. Only an artist, trying to exhibit and sell her paintings from her summer home, volunteered to engage in conversation.

Day four dawned bright and clear, and at 1000 we hoisted the sails, sailed smartly off the anchor and set course for the island of Symi. By 1030 we had started the engine and by 1100 the wind had dropped to nothing leaving only the residual sea from the day before and even that did not last long, where was the forecast NW10-15 knots of wind? The Mediterranean strikes again! At least it was a chance to recharge the batteries. The engine had not been used since our arrival in Astipalaia. The solar panels on Kurukulla are good but do not quite meet domestic demand, especially if the computer is in frequent use; next year it could be that I will fit a wind generator as well to bridge the power gap.

Symi harbour

After six and a half windless hours motoring we arrived in the main port of Symi where we were to exit Greece for the last time. Our delay in Tilos had cost us the chance of a stay in Rhodes and besides we had been recommended to re-enter Turkey via Bozburun, where the local bureaucracy is said to be less of a pain.

Symi is a gateway to Greece for many yachts as witnessed by the numerous British registered yachts in the harbour. As an island it is pretty but suffers from the inflated prices of a tourist venue. From here we head back into Turkey and then onwards to journey's end at Marmaris. Next post from there!