Kurukulla

Kurukulla
Kurukulla, anchored at James Bond Island, Thailand

Saturday 6 August 2011

Au revoir Istanbul

Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque and Aya Sofia from seaward
Departing view of the Bosphorus
As planned, on the day after Melvin's departure, Steve Keley and I sailed Kurukulla out to the Princes Islands, spending the night anchored in Heybeliada again, From there we went onwards to Tuzla, where we spent the second night anchored in the bay and then back to the Princes Islands, Manastir Bay (where we spent a very rocky night) before returning to Anakoy Marina. Trevor and family had very kindly invited us to join them for dinner that night before they all repaired onboard the next day. The aim of the brief trip was to allow Steve to become conversant with Kurukulla before the Croziers' arrived onboard as none of them has ever sailed before. After flying the spinnaker, sailing on and off the anchor and several man overboard drills we considered the aim achieved.
As planned the Croziers' joined at 1130 and following morning; after stowing their gear and sorting out the domestics we set off for a victualling run to the local supermarket. Needless to say we returned loaded like beasts of burden but at least we now have enough onboard for at least a week, stand-fast fresh foods. Later that same afternoon we sailed for a very gentle reach to............. you have guessed it …......... the Princes Islands, Heybeliada, for a final visit and a tranquil first night at anchor for the new arrivals.
Swim on arrival at Topagac
Next morning we reached across the bay, in a brisk wind, to the entrance to the Bosphorus and did the tourist cruise for a second time but this time only as far as the first bridge. On completion we had a gentle-ish sail (Solent rig – Genoa only) 18 miles along the coast to Guzelce Marina for a second tranquil night.
Cosy with the derelict fishing boat
Topagac beach
Topagac waterfront
Thursday morning we set off relatively early, 1030, to sail south westwards across the shipping lanes to Marmara, A goose-winged, dead run, all the way; average speed 6.5 knots. Just as we drew level with the eastern end of the island of Marmara a pod of 6 – 8 dolphins joined us and played under the bow for ten or so minutes, creating great excitement onboard. At 1830 we arrived at Topagac where we anchored in the bay for an early evening swim before moving into the harbour for the night. Topagac breakwater is being extended and the only berth we could find was adjacent to the construction machines at the inner end of the breakwater. Lack of space required us to share it with a semi derelict fishing boat; the combination of dust and wind will provide a washing down challenge for later! It being Ramadan the town is almost deserted and very few of the shops etc. are open, that is those that look as though they have traded recently, many more look as though they have been deserted for several years. Topagac is a town which looks to be in its last throes of dying, the people however are really friendly and welcoming. Almost nobody passes you in the street without saying the one word of English they know “welcome”.

After a relatively quiet night, shortened for some by being serenaded by a drummer marching up and down the jetty at 0600 (Ramadan results in people being up and around before dawn to eat and pray; food is not permitted between dawn and dusk), fortunately some of us (i.e. me) did not hear his practising! A brief trip into town for bread, an hour or so on the beach and then another windy downwind sail, again under Solent rig, to Pasalimani. The dolphins again obliged by providing a 15 minute display of games around the boat before deserting us as we turned into the more tranquil waters of the Pasalimani anchorage. Some took the opportunity to stretch their legs ashore and I took the opportunity to renew my acquaintance with the restaurateur and book a table for that night. I need not have worried, as the afternoon went on the wind became stronger and stronger until we debated whether we would even be able to take up our booking, ultimately we donned life and foul weather jackets and braved the elements in the dinghy. We were greeted like family, had a good meal (not quite what we thought we had pre ordered but no one minded), were the only customers that night, and finally returned to the boat at 2230.
On Saturday morning the mullahs gave us our now customary morning call at 0500; every mosque, however small, has high power loudspeakers to summon the faithful to prayer (and we complain about church bells!). We then set off at the ungodly hour of 0600 to take advantage of the lighter (relatively speaking, it was still gusting 35+ knots) morning winds.
Ocaklar beach
We motored rather than sail in the gusty conditions for the seven miles to the beach anchorage at Ocaklar for a day of relaxation and then as the evening drew close moved into the harbour at Erdek for a second visit. As last time we were welcomed by the locals many of whom know only one word of English “welcome”.
Arriving at Erdek
From here it is three or four days to Canakkale and another crew change. More from there.

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